Varanasi is a small city by Indian standards – only 1.2 million. It is crowded and dirty in spite of everyone constantly cleaning their stoops and shops and homes and cars and rickshaws and everything washable.  It is just a never ending battle with mother earth, I think.

A pilgrimage to Varanasi, which it seems we completed, for the most part, involves a ritual bathing in the Ganges at sunrise (we left the hotel at 5:15 am to watch this), visiting temples, and returning at night to watch the evening “aarti” which is a celebration of music and chanting for “mother Ganga.”  We watched from a boat on the river…it was really quite beautiful and the chanting fills the night with sound (it is amplified).  I really expected this whole experience in Varanasi to be this crazy religious fanatical display, but it SO is not that…During the day, we explored the town, making our way down the narrow streets (if you can call them that – more like pathways between buildings).  Human life co-exists with all the many animals…have I mentioned the cows?  They are EVERYWHERE and anywhere.  Dogs, monkeys, goats…an occasional pig.  No cats, strangely enough.  And cows. And more cows.  In the alleys and the shops and the middle of the street and basically anywhere you look. They are revered and truly a part of life here.

During the day, we explored the town, making our way down the narrow streets (if you can call them that – more like pathways between buildings).  Human life co-exists with all the many animals…have I mentioned the cows?  They are EVERYWHERE and anywhere.  Dogs, monkeys, goats…an occasional pig.  No cats, strangely enough.  And cows. And more cows.  In the alleys and the shops and the middle of the street and basically anywhere you look. They are revered and truly a part of life here.

The city comes to life at night like you wouldn’t believe. People everywhere, the streets crowded with old and young, walking, on bikes, on bicycle rickshaws, in three-wheeled “tuk tuks” (sort of a golf cart vehicle), cars, trucks, oxen pulling carts, old men pushing wooden platform carts laden with all sorts of things, cows  and more cows, and goats and dogs running around…people shopping at tiny little spaces and eating from countless street food vendors…and the horns honking in a constant din of warning that someone is near. This is not a place for the faint of heart; I found it to be exhilarating and fascinating and thrilling…  It is a third world experience that definitely requires you to set aside all you know of Western society.

It was an amazing day!  I really feel like the adventure has begun.  Next it is off to Khajuraho, a religious capital for the Chandela Kings in the 11th century. The temples are extremely well preserved, and apparently amazing architecture assembled completely with interlocking stones. These are also the famous temples adorned with erotic carvings. A British explorer described them as “a little warmer than necessary”. I have a feeling that was an understatement.

Until my next installment…namaste.