After our brief stop on the Korean Peninsula, back across the Sea of Japan we go, headed for Nagasaki. The US atomic bombing here was just three days after Hiroshima on August 9, 1945. We had planned a similar visit as we had in Hiroshima (museum and such), but that experience was really tough and left us feeling like we had paid our respects – so just the Peace Park was on the agenda today.

Awakening to rain and a chill in the air, our plan for today got upended when they closed the gondola that would take us high above the city. So…we got rerouted, with a first stop at a Christian church, the Urakami Cathderal. It’s a bit of interesting history: the port of Nagasaki was founded by the Portuguese, and they attempted to bring Christianity to Japan. It never took hold, and to this day, only 1.5% of the population identify as Christian.

Wet and windblown, we then headed for the Nagasaki Peace Park. The rain died down, allowing us a leisurely stroll through the open space, gardens, and sculptures…and cherry trees just on the brink of bloom. It is more peaceful and hopeful here than the park in Hiroshima. There it was more “designed” and the final message was mostly about stopping nuclear proliferation, where as here it is more nature-oriented, global, and focused on a peaceful future – there are sculptures donated from countries around the world symbolizing a desire for peace. I can’t say I loved most of the art, but the idea of it all is powerful.

And since the guide was filling time due to the cancelled gondola ride, she took us to Ground Zero. The bomb exploded 1800 ft above this spot.

…and then to Dejima, a man-made island trading post used by Portuguese and Dutch traders from the 16th to the 19th century. It was the only Japanese territory open to Westerners during the isolationist Edo period (1600-1869). We wander around the reconstructions and installations, getting sense of what this might have been like 400 years ago, although it seems very sanitized when you think about what it was really like. Maybe the coolest thing was a scale model of the whole thing – a couple pics below are the streets of the model.

It’s been a low key, overcast day…we head back to the ship for afternoon tea (yes, the ship does a classic British tea service) and then trivia! Tomorrow is Kagoshima, our last stop before a day at sea and a final night in Tokyo.

And what’s in Kagoshima, one might ask? We wonder that too. Mostly, a volcano that involves a ferry ride to visit (the bus can go on the ferry?! yep!). It erupts frequently enough that children wear hard hats when walking to school in case it spews small rocks.  It’s a beautiful vista as we climb the path to an observation area. People leave small coins in the nooks of the lava – for good luck?

And then…on our way back to the ferry…finally…cherry blossoms! We’ve been chasing them South, and find them here. Our bus driver graciously takes us down the scenic route – a sloping roadway lined with cherry blossom trees on either side. 

On the ferry ride back, I’m thinking a little can of vending-machine coffee is in order. It’s one of those “tiny can” sizes, and when I pick it up – surprise! – it’s hot?! The Japanese and their vending machines, right?!

As we take the long way back to the ship, a Kagoshima city tour if you will, we finally see some quintessentially Japanese architecture (albeit filtered through the bus window):

The evening’s merriment on board is highlighted by a moderately talented cruise-ship version of The Captain and Tennille doing one-hit wonders from the ‘80’s. It’s a spirited evening in the lounge, in every sense, as tomorrow is a restful day at sea. Somehow that day flies by, and we are soon pulling into the Tokyo cruise terminal, returning to where this amazing adventure began.

We’re not ones to waste moments, so we hit the ground running for this last day in Tokyo. Kara is on a mission for every crazy kitkat flavor (not possible – there are over 300!) and a Goshuin stamp (these evidence your visit to a shrine); we’re all excited to go to an animal cafe (hedgehogs!); I must find a satin jacket embroidered with sanrio characters (which means braving the Don Quijote stores); Bobb needs the Disney Tokyo store for family gifts; Martine can’t leave without seeing the 3D billboard of a cat; and of course we have to see the Shibuya Crossing (seven streets converge and all the crosswalks turn green at once).

Everywhere we go, it’s so much more crowded than when we left…but let’s do this!

The hedgehog cafe is a hoot. You hang out with the cute little creatures, feeding them and giving ‘em love, as they burrow around in their themed houses. You can even buy one, with an up charge if you want a “friendly” one.

At the Shibuya Crossing, we’ve timed it for lunch, so we find a place above the intersection (“how about that place up there? sure!”) that has a good view. We’re lucky they have space, and we have no idea what we are getting when we order the Lunch Special…but it turns out to be incredible. We watch the scramble several times, and we’re told it’s a “light” day. Most often, it is solid people, very courteously making their way across, even in a crowd, as that is the Japanese way.

It’s a short walk from the Shibuya Crossing to the 3D billboard, which is SO cool. The picture doesn’t do it justice! And I did manage to find my cool jacket at the Mega Don Quijote in Shinjuku.

We grab a taxi, bidding Tokyo a fond farewell. As travels come to a close, it’s always bittersweet. Home sweet home beckons, its creature comforts welcoming like a warm blanket, and at the same time, there’s a sadness that the escapade has come to a close. 

We’ve explored foreign lands, made new friends, eaten amazing food, seen wondrous sights new and old, walked in different cultures, re-lived history, explored golden castles and magical caves, avoided falling into boiling ponds, sat in awe of Mt. Fuji…and even managed to navigate the Tokyo subway.