After our incredible adventure exploring the sands and sights of Wadi Rum, we spilled out of the pickups and back into the motor coach…from dirt roads to high rises, you might say…bound for Aqaba, Jordan and a luxury hotel perched at the tip of the Red Sea. Nothing planned for tonight, and nothing on the agenda for tomorrow. A welcome respite to relax and recharge after days filled with activities (especially as we think about Tel Aviv Pride coming up!).

Often on this trip, we reminded ourselves where we are on the planet. Somehow it gives it a greater sense of place and adventure when you think “I live there, and now I’m here” in this unfamiliar culture where the language and the food and the dress and history and social customs are all so different from what I’ve lived. 

So here’s where we are – in the city of Aqaba. In the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan (its formal name). The modern dynasty has ruled here for 100 years, or maybe since the 10th century, depending on how you interpret the history and family lineage. The way-back patriarchal ancestor is said to have been the great-grandfather of the Islamic prophet Muhammad. Put that in your timeline and think about it…

When we arrived at the hotel, there was a collective exhale, ooh and aah at the sight of it. We were all hungry for a bit of pampering, and this place was going to prove just the ticket. It did not disappoint…

The evening began with a reception hosted for our group on the rooftop terrace, complete with hipster Ukrainian DJ. Some tasty apps and passed champagne completed the setting. A perfect start to the night, and while we knew were not going to get a perfect shaken-not-stirred at dinner, this being Jordan where even a fancy hotel can’t pull off fancy cocktails, a deep slumber was guaranteed – a king bed with too many pillows and blindingly white, freshly pressed sheets to be enjoyed while snuggling under the blanket keeping warm from the a/c set just a bit too cold. Aaahhh….

The next day we wandered into town. When we asked where to go for a general sense of the place and some shopping, the concierge graciously explained a bit about the town and then was astonished we wanted to walk. It really wasn’t that far, but it was inconceivable to him and the other hotel staff who were hanging around that we would not take a taxi. It was hot out, sure, but not too bad. After the third time insisting we did not want a taxi, we left. I’m sure there were mumblings of “hmph…Americans…” as the door closed behind us.A bit of souvenir shopping, a visit to their markets, a bag of dried lemons to bring home (crush one and the smell is intoxicating)…and we headed back to hotel for lunch by the pool, a swim in the cool waters of the Red Sea, and of course spa appointments. It’s low season here, so nothing was crowded, making our down time all the better.

Dinner on the terrace looking out over the water to the Israeli city of Eilat as the sun went down was sublime. It was a prix fixe menu with WAY too much food (that often happened on this trip and we never figured out why) – starters of hummus and crushed artichokes and spiced eggplant and beets mashed with something delish and mains of grilled chicken and fish, all accented with amazing flavors and spices that filled the night air. Sweet treats topped it off, further punctuated with the in-house belly dancer…

It’s so tranquil here, it seems impossible that there is so much tension among the peoples who call these lands home. In this setting, it’s easy to imagine there is peace. As we looked out over the Red Sea, the evening lights and moon’s reflection catching the ripples on the water just so, we reminded ourselves again where we were. Just across the water is Israel. And on a clear day, you can see Egypt from here. Maybe even Saudi Arabia. 

Salaam.